Behind the Beard, Without the Kippa

On a clear day in Gush Etzion, you can see for miles. And if you know the history of the region, you can feel its spirit in your bones. You drive along the highway, pass the different yishuvim, point out Yeshivat Har Etzion, fall silent where hundreds fell in the War of Independence and you hear the place crying out triumphantly, “Am Yisrael Chai.”